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Breathtaking views Lisbon: restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, 10-min ferry trip & boat taxi

Nowadays Lisbon is suffering from the high number of tourists. Residents are protesting more and more…20 years ago this place was a ‘hidden gem’….. Stunning sunset! 

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio & friends from Japan/ Amsterdam August 2025

A 10-minutes ferry trip from Lisbon’s city center (Cais Do Sodré) to the other side of the Tagus river is really worth it! 

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio is one of my favorites, a small paradise & fresh & tasty fish! 🙂

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio : delicious (fish) lunch with Margarethe de Vrieze and Marjolein Petersen (& dog Nelson) May 2022

Right next to the elevator to the Cristo Rei Statue, restaurant Atira-te ao Rio (litt. ‘throw yourself into the river‘) is a space blessed by fabulous views over old town Lisbon.

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon & friend Josephine Lucassen (official tourist guide), March 12, 2020

The menu is typically Portuguese: dishes with good presentation and tasty. We ordered one of my favorite dishes, salada com polvo  (octopus salad), and shrimps.

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon & view 25 April bridge

Wintertime

These pictures are made in September on a beautiful sunny day, but in wintertime there’s also the possibility to enjoy the views of old town Lisbon inside the restaurant.

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon, September 2017

In wintertime the large windows allow the view to be equally (almost as) good as outside. The restaurant features an indoor room with a burning stove and a terrace with heaters and  blankets.

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon, August 2025

My choice: Tuna Tataki with Sautéed Rice with Vegetables and Fennel  🙂 🙂  €21

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon, August 2025

After passing some abandoned and ruinous very old warehouses (lots of lovely graffiti ), there’s restaurant Atira-te ao Rio. ca. 10 minutes walk from the ferry.

NOW REMOVED: Very old abandoned warehouses with a long history (2018)

UPDATE 2025: the old warehouses are gone…..redevelopment plan restoring around 90,000 square meters, including a housing complex with around 300 homes, stores and services, a hotel with 160 rooms, social facilities and 500 parking spaces. (source: Lisboa Secreta)

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal Lisbon, April 2023

How to get there? 

Take a (cheap) ferry trip from the Cais do Sodré ferry terminal to Cacilhas,  (timetable vice verca) and after a 10 minutes walk along abadonded warehouses near the river Tagus there’s restaurant Atira-te ao Rio.

Cais do Sodré ferry terminal to Cacilhas,  (timetable vice verca)

Restaurant Atira-te ao Rio
Cais do Ginjal, 69/70, Almada Centro, Lisbon
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OPEN: every day from 12:30 – 23:00
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Taxi boat service  -:) . Picture: restaurant Atira-te Ao Rio

Taxi boat service, from any deck in Lisbon. 24H/365 days. +351 939 175 05
Nearby: restaurant Ponto Final.  More…..
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♥️of Lisbon: Studio ‘Galeria Escultórica’: ceramic sculpture, pottery & workshops

In the heart of Lisbon, ceramic artist António Salvador Carvalho opened his Studio ‘Galeria Escultórica‘ (‘Sculptural Gallery‘) about a year ago. The area, Alcântara,  is charming and quiet.

Ceramic artist António Salvador Carvalho & Vase ‘Medusa’

Vase ‘MEDUSA’ & hair with living snakes

Medusa (Greek mythology) was a woman with living snakes in place of hair; anyone who looked upon her was turned to stone.

Medusa was beheaded by the Greek hero  Perseus, who then used her head, which retained its ability to turn onlookers to stone, as a weapon… (more: Wikipedia).

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António:  “The process of creating the Medusa took a couple of weeks. The hairpieces design is what takes more time to accomplish because each one of them is hollowed inside to make the sculpture lighter although the full sculpture weights around 12 to 15 kilos in the end”.

The Medusa ends up to be a vase for flowers that subverts its symbolic meaning.

Studio Ceramic artist António Salvador Carvalho Lisbon

‘Gato por Lebre‘ (‘A Pig in a poke’ 😉 😉 )  immediately caught my attention :  beautiful and funny!

‘Galeria Escultórica‘ Lisbon & twinbrother António José Carvalho

Africa/Mozambique & Alentejo

Born in Lisbon in 1969, António Salvador studied sculpture in the University of Fine Arts. Most of his sculptures are in dialogue with childhood memories being Africa / Mozambique  (António‘s father worked in Africa for several years) when being a kid as well as folk art from the Portuguese Southern culture of Alentejo from where his family is.

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Studio ‘Galeria Escultórica‘ Lisbon: Lindsay Renaud &  António

In the Studio, the atmosphere can be described as very pleasant and inspiring. Ceramic artworks are displayed (some creations ‘still in progress’).

Workshops

A Dutch friend of mine, AnneMarie, really enjoys the ceramic workshop  twice a week. She asked me to visit the studio while working on one of her new creations.

♥️Studio ‘Galeria Escultórica‘ Lisbon & Dutch friend AnneMarie 🙂

TWINS:  António Salvador Carvalho & António José Carvalho

António Salvador: ‘We were born in Lisbon in the year that men went to the moon, separated by a five minute interval. We were so alike that few of us distinguished, whether by physical similarity or the name we shared’.

INSEPARABLE TWINS

António Salvador: ‘Because we are so much alike it was easier for us to change our identity countless times without no one would notice. We have always been inseparable even though life has taken us apart’.

Pottery wheel  lessons Studio ‘Galeria Escultórica’ & Lindsay Renaud

Oasis in a world of chaos and instability

António Salvador: ‘Studio ‘Galeria Escultórica‘ is the place where we want to be at a time when the world is turned upside down with problems of all kinds. An oasis for people like us, who long for a sense of freedom, creative processes and the exchange of knowledge’.

♥️Studio ‘Galeria Escultórica‘ Lisbon & Lindsay Renaud

Original pieces, pottery wheel & workshops

♥️Studio ‘Galeria Escultórica‘ Lisbon & Annick Rozendaal

António Salvador: ”We create original pieces that we sell and give introductory workshops on the pottery wheel, sculptural tile, support for ceramic sculpture projects, sharing of workshop space, and clay firings”.
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Studio Ceramic artist António Salvador Carvalho Lisbon 
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♥️Create your own ceramics with your own hands! 
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Lisbon, Portugal 1300-356
Phone:  (00351) 963 099 428
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Workshop ‘turning wheel’‘ Studio António Salvador Carvalho Lisbon 
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Unique Glória funicular Lisbon to Bairro Alto & viewpoint São Pedro de Alcântara

UPDATE September 3, 2025

Lisbon in shock after deadly funicular crash  

The unique funicular Elevador da Glória, makes the connection between Restauradores and bohemian, nightlife and shopping area Bairro Alto on a 265 metres journey (up or down the hill) to viewpoint Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara with magnificent views on the Castelo de São Jorge.

Funicular Electrico Avenida da Liberdade Restauradores naar Bairro Alto

The Glória funicular was opened in 1885 and in February 2002 it was classified as a national monument. It was the second of its kind in Lisbon, thanks to the initiative of the New Lisbon Mechanical Lift Company (Nova Companhia dos Ascensores Mecânicos de Lisboa – N.C.A.M.L.). The first of its lifts was the Lavra, opened the year before, and Bica.

Funicular Gloria Maria Grencho2

Maria Givencho likes her job. The funicular’s operating hours are 07:00-00: 55 every day.

The story of the Glória funicular can be traced back to 1875, when the Lisbon City Council gave the rights to two individuals to set up a form of transport on sloping terrain in the Calçada da Glória. The construction projects, however, were never approved and time slipped by. Finally the funicular opened to the public on 24 October 1885, with the pomp and circumstance typical of the time – a host of guests, fireworks, music and much cheering and hooraying. More…

Funicular Gloria from Bairro Alto naar Restauradores2

The Glória funicular, Calçada da Glória, near Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara, close to one of the many entrances to area Bairro Alto. When you go out of the funicular you will find on the right side the viewpoint Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara.

Bairro Alto Lisbon Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

Viewpoint and WiFi spot Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara.

This wonderful belvedere will give you a unique insight into the city. It is rather quiet during the day, but it completely changes at night when young people seek fun and action in the Bairro Alto.

Lisbon Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

Viewpoint Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara with magnificent views on the Castelo de São Jorge. and the Graça area. The view from this small garden is (for me) the best in the city.

Lisbon Instituto do vinho do porto Bairro Alto

Just a stone’s throw away lies Instituto do Vinho do Porto, at Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcântara nos. 39-49, where a range of port wines may be tasted and purchased (open from 12:00 – 24:00).

When I came in, the service was very slow…… You can order by the glass or bottle.

Lisbon Bairro Alto Instituto do Vinho do Porto4

Instituto do Vinho do Porto

On the ground floor of the former Palace Palácio Ludovice. 1749 is the year in which this elegeant building was completed by his architect and owner Johann Friedrich Ludwig (1673-1752).

Lisbon Bairro Alto Insituto do Porto Port wine

Instituto do Vinho do Porto

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Rooftop restaurant 8th floor POLLUX Lisbon: scenic views & delicious lunch

A good idea for a lunch if you visit Lisbon 🙂

Around 25 years ago I discovered a cafe on the 8th floor of a huge department store in Lisbon named Pollux : small plastic tables, great view, good coffee (bica, 40 cents!) & a tasty, traditional pastel de nata

January 2025: Restaurant & bar Terraço Editorial in Lisbon & view famous Santa Justa elevator.  For me this view will never be boring! 🙂

8th floor classic department store Pollux

In 2017 restaurant & bar LESS was opened, on the 8th floor of department store Pollux ( 5.000 m2), founded in 1936, offering typical Portuguese luxury items for home decoration and household goods.

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Restaurant & bar Terraço Editorial in Lisbon & Tagus river view January 2025
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Total make-over in 2017
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The terrace, offering views of the legendary Santa Justa lift and the ruins of the Convento do Carmo, (Carmo Convent) used to have a small cafe with plastic tables (20 years ago: a hidden gem..)
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Basic snacks, soups and coffees were served nearby products for sale in the store such as plastic flowers, garden chairs and camping tables.
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Restaurant & bar Terraço Editorial in Lisbon & great city views, January 2025
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In September 2017 the entire 8th floor of the department store was transformed into a modern casual dining space.
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Restaurant & bar Terraço Editorial in Lisbon. January, 2025
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8 Dutch girls 😉 😉  enjoying each other’s company and a delicious lunch.
It was too cold and windy for us to sit outside, but the interior space is lovely!
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Restaurant & bar Terraço Editorial in Lisbon & very nice waiter Augusto
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Bill for 8 girls, including wine (Raposinha, red), or Marmore, white: 171,15 euro.
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Restaurant & bar Terraço Editorial in Lisbon , January 2025
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Vegetarian lasagna ( Euro 12,75) & chicory salad (Euro 4.25)
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Restaurant & bar Terraço Editorial in Lisbon , January 2025

My choice: Atum (tuna) & vegetables, euro 15:50

‘Are you being served?’
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BESIDES: When I entered the Pollux department store for the first time, around 30 years ago, the old-fashioned atmosphere and the (good) hierarchical service-model reminded me a little bit of the legendary British sitcom  “Are you being served?’ 😉 (YouTube), broadcasted between 1972 and 1985
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Restaurant & Bar Terraço Editorial Lisbon, January 2025
Muito obrigada, thank you very much! Very nice waiters Francisco & Augusto 🙂 🙂
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Important: the restaurant can only be reached by taking the elevator in department store Pollux: 8th floor. Rua dos Fanqueiros, 276, Lisbon.
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Lovely Portuguese shop at Lisbon’s fleamarket: ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’

There’s a store where you step into Lisbon’s famous fleamarket, ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’. Traditional Portuguese, very warm service 🙂

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’, at fleamarket Lisbon

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ opened his doors in November 2014, selling traditional Portuguese ceramics from Caldas da Rainha, the ‘capital’ of portuguese pottery, popularized by artist and designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro. (also known for his illustrations, caricatures and sculptures).

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon, November 2019

People from all over the world visiting Lisbon, usually like strolling through the fleamarket (Feira da Ladra, lit. thieves market), where you can find this lovely little shop.

I heard Chinese, Russian- or French people say: ‘How wonderful, but how do we get all this into our suitcase?’

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’, 2019

The shelves are full of crockery, tableware and decorative objects, in an explosion of colors and iconic products such as pumpkins, cabbages, swallows, roosters, frogs, lizards, sardines and hanging codfish.

 ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ & one of the 2 very friendly owners

Designer Bordalo Pinheiro had a great sense of humor..  😉  Many of his designs, for example the collection of cabbage leaf dinnerware, are very funny…. !

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon

Swallow nest (andorinha): symbol of loyalty and love 

In 1891 designer Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro decided to produce a set of ceramic pieces that looked like swallows. They integrated into Portuguese homes and became a symbol for a Portuguese house which lives on still today. Why it had such a massive success? It represents family, loyalty and love! 🙂

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ fleamarket Lisbon

The Portuguese adore codfish (bacalhau) and it’s said that are 365 different ways to cook it…one recipe for each day of the year!

 ‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon 2023

There’s a very long history with Portugal & codfish: shortly after Columbus (about 500 years ago) discovered America, the Portuguese were fishing for cod near NewFoundland. More…….

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon 2023

The legend of the ‘good luck’ rooster (Galo de Barcelos): a national symbol of Portugal

If you visit Lisbon you see brightly coloured roosters in all souvenir shops in all kind of variations and sizes. According to the legend, it brings you good luck, but you must receive it as a gift…more: WikiPedia

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon

YouTube – The legend of the Galo de Barcelos has been passed from generation to generation and while the stories differ, the ending is always the same.

‘‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’’ Lisbon & sardines (sardinhas)

Grilled sardines (sardinhas) & party time in June: Feast days of the popular saints

Sardines play an important role in Portuguese culture. In the month of June traditionally millions of big and tasty sardines (sardinhas) are grilled outdoors. The streets of the historical areas in Lisbon are filled with a delicious smell (but also the smoke!) 😉

On the eve of Saint Anthony’s day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!

My favorite 🙂  crockery in beautiful soft colours

‘Campo Santa Clara ceramics’ Lisbon
Campo de Santa Clara, no. 112

Tuesdays and Saturdays (fleamarket days): open from 09:00 – 19:00

www.facebook.com/armazemdascaldas

Fleamarket Lisbon, Alfama district. View from ‘Armazém das Caldas’ more…..

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Lisbon’s craziest night: June 12, street parties, naughty lyrics & sardines

Lots of festivities in the month of June 🙂 ! Lisbon’s craziest night, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party! ! 🙂 ! 🙂

In June, the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feast Days of the Popular Saints), the Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take over the city’s historical center

Area Mouraria Lisbon in the month of June, great atmosphere!

The place to be in historical center of Mouraria Lisbon!

Rua Guia, Mouraria, Lisbon.

Lisbpn, area Mouraria, June 12, 2025

Feast Days of the Popular Saints &  yearly Saint Anthony (Santo António) traditional festivities

Lisbon, Rua dos Remédios, area Alfama June 2019

Every year mid-June, the time-honoured Santo António celebrations take over the streets of Lisbon, filling them with grilled-sardine and sangria-selling stalls, cheery bunting, and happy people. More..

Lisbon historic area Mouraria in June

Who was matchmaker Saint Anthony, Santo António (15 August 1195 – 13 June 1231)?

June 12, 2018: The Saint Anthony’s mass marriages  in Lisbon. Picture: Josephine Lucassen

YouTube weddings (casamentos)

Celebrated since before the 25 April Revolution in 1974, the Santo António weddings are held to give cash-strapped local couples the chance to wed in a large joint ceremony. More…

Area Mouraria Lisbon June 2019, Rua Guia, Mouraria, Lisbon.

Saint Anthony’s brides: YouTube 

The lucky couples receive everything free of charge including the ring, wedding dress and honeymoon as part of an annual competition organised by the city council.

Party time ! Historic area Mouraria June 12, 2018. Picture: Rob van Scherpenseel

Square : Largo da Severa 2 Lisbon

Eating, drinking and dancing together in the narrow streets. On the eve of Saint Anthony day, June 12, Lisbon turns into one big party!  🙂

June 12, 2017

Historical area Mouraria Lisbon & bar Flamingo. Friends Margreet, Rob & Lilja 🙂

YouTube Saint Anthony street parties historic area Mouraria Lisbon

June 12, Eve of Santo Antonio, Mouraria Lisbon the Kings of sardine,  (os reis da sardinha)  😉

People are dancing in the streets on Pimba music

Pimba music – songs frequently driven by metaphors with sexual meanings

An example of Pimba music: ‘Quero cheirar teu bacalhau Maria’  ( I would like to smell your codfish Maria ! 😉 😉 by Quim Barreiros)

Traditional grilled sardinhas (sardines) & salad in June

Grilled sardines recipe by Rochelle Ramos:

Delicious grilled piri piri sardines on crusty bread recipe complete with step-by-step pictures and detailed instructions

Mouraria Lisbon June 12, 2016, Beco do Jasmim & salsa dancing

Everywhere in the streets of the historic areas in Lisbon you see people grilling sardines outside their homes and the narrow streets fill up with people in party mood.

June 12, 2019

Street party Saint Santo Antonio & romantic couple overlooking the festivities 🙂

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Margriet de Vrieze & sardine party 🙂  Mouraria Lisbon

 Festas de Lisboa       Facebook

Waiting for the Mouraria yearly parade 2018…

Picture: Liesbeth Niebling

‘Marchas popularas’ Mouraria area Lisbon 2015.

Yearly parades June 12 : Youtube 2018

At Avenida da Liberdade, from around 8h30 pm, June 12, there’s the yearly parade, with people dressed up in beautiful costumes.

Area Mouraria Lisbon & yearly parade June 12, 2019,  Santo Antonio Marchas Populares

Each group represents one of Lisbon’s twenty neighborhoods There ‘s a winner for the best performance and costumes.

June 12, 2023: Winning area Bica

June 12, 2019 : Lisbon’s craziest night of the year in Mouraria, Lisbon.

Wine, sangria, beer,  sardines, mojitos, caipirinhas, fado, music.

How to reach this area

 Rua Guia, Lisbon, close to square Martim Moniz: metro, tram and bus station

Lisbon Festas populares Santo Antonio craziest night of the uear 2015

Mouraria March June 12, 2015

Lisbon’s Eve of Saint Anthony parade in de streets of Mouraria

June 2016, feast days of the popular saints

Saint João 😉 😉

(sponsor is Sagres, a Portuguese brand of beer)

Bica district Lisbon, famous funicular near Bairro Alto

YouTube  It’s hard to walk there! R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 

The narrow streets in area Bairro Alto (at night) are filled with people in a party mood. Every bar and club shuts its doors and moves its drinks to the windows, or on to tables outside.

June 2019, Lisbon & historical area Alfama

All the streets are decorated with garlands and lights, from Castelo to Mouraria, Graça to Alfama, and Ajuda to Bairro Alto.

Lisbon Santo Antonio basil plants with poems

Manjerico (basil), a symbol of affection & love poems

As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations on which they write poems.

During the month of June there are many stalls in the city where you can buy the pots with basil (from 5 – 15 euro) and a selection of poems with various texts

Love poems

“não digas que não amas –  “do not say you don’t love me
pois tens a voz a tremer –    because your voice is trembling
quando um não proclamas – when one does not proclaim
um sim pretender dizer” –  it is “yes” you mean to say….

Lisbon Santo Antionio Church candles

Santo Antonio (better known as Saint Anthony of Padua)

Saint Anthony: matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was actually born in Lisbon, on the site of this church. MORE…….  Largo Santo Antonio à Sé, Alfama.  

Lisbon Saint Antonio June 12 2015 Rossio

Lisbon, Eve of Saint Anthony festivities. Picture: Luc de Leersnyder

Program & more information about all festivities in Lisbon: Cultura na Rua

MORE …

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Lisbon: saturday biological market Príncipe Real & amazing centuries-old trees

This park in area Príncipe Real in Lisbon is a gorgeous location! Centuries-old beautiful trees and shadowed terraces .

A biological market is held here every Saturday morning 🙂

This century-old cedar ‘umbrella’ (20 meters) tree is really amazing!

Park Príncipe Real (Royal Prince) Lisbon : charming area 🙂

Beautiful trees and terraces to drink your bica (espresso). The atmosphere is relaxed.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon &  Saturday bric-a-brac market

Paula Maio & her beautiful stuff 🙂 April 26, 2025

The Príncipe Real market is one of the most popular for handicrafts and bric-a-brac in Lisbon (last Saturday and Monday of each month)

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon &  Saturday biological market, 2019

Biological market every Saturday from 9:00-3:00

Around the park, the Biological Products Fair (Feira de Produtos Biológicos) is held every week on Saturdays at Jardim França Borges, commonly known as Jardim do Príncipe Real.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon: Saturday biological market

At Lisbon’s weekly organic farmers market producers from all around the country sell most varied natural products, from vegetables to cosmetics, honey and wine. Bargaining is always possible and appropriate.

Parque Príncipe Real Lisbon 2019

‘Doces da Paulinha’ (sweet and savory): traditional flavors, with organic products, handcrafted with love . Facebook

Restaurants in this area

There are several good places to have lunch or dinner, such as one of my favorites, Italian restaurant & pizzeria Zero Zero with a lovely outdour dining area, or trendy restaurant ‘O Prego da Peixaria:  excellent steak or fish.

Lisbon Principe Real Rua dom Pedro V Cunha Palace

Rua dom Pedro V, no. 26 : Arabesque Ribeiro da Cunha Palace (1877)

Principe Real’s Rua dom Pedro V  is one of the most interesting streets of Lisbon to walk around. In recent years, the neighborhood has become a great place to shop . Watch out for pickpocking !  )-:

Embaixada, Praça do Príncipe Real

Shopping & renovated historical buildings

Designer boutiques and art galleries are housing in wonderful renovated historical buildings.

There are incredible stores, such as Embaixada (the Embassy), ​​which was built in 1877 and now houses design shops, fashion and gastronomy in wonderful spaces.   Website

YouTube : the Rebirth of Lisbon’s Principe Real District

Shopping store Embaixada is located in Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, a XIX century new-Arabian Palace, one of the most iconic buildings in this neighbourhood. Facebook

Embaixada, Praça do Príncipe Real,  no. 26 Lisbon

Park Príncipe Real Lisbon

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Contact

Bom dia! My name is Julie, I’m living in Amsterdam and I love this wonderful city, but I also fell in love with Lisbon!

Lisbon & the castle of St John. Square: Martim Moniz 2010

We (together with my son) started a blog in 2008, ‘ a Lisbon guide from the inside’,  with lots of ideas to discover Lisbon.

In 2002, I bought an apartment in Lisbon in the historical area Mouraria.

Room & 3- bedroom apartment area Mouraria Lisbon

 It is not possible to rent this house

3-bedroom apartment Mouraria in Lisbon & lovely patio

Patio (25 m2) & kitchen in summertime

YouTube: 900 years old area Mouraria Lisbon

Apartment Mouraria patio

flowering jasmin (March 2019)

Much more about 900 years old area Mouraria in Lisbon

Rua do Terreirinho, historic area Mouraria, in the heart of Lisbon’s city center, 2019

Facebook

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Beach Costa Caparica Lisbon, gay Beach 19, famous beach train & how to get there

If you want to escape the hassle and the heat of Lisbon on a hot summer day, try the beaches of Costa da Caparica, just across the Tejo river. Locals swarm to the village of Caparica, but just away from the village, tens of kilometres of white, unspoilt beaches are at your disposal!

Lisbon Costa da Caparica

Costa da Caparica beach in summertime.

Transpraia train

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the Transpraia was taken out of service in 2020. Portugal.com:  BRING BACK THE BEACH TRAIN

UPDATE August 20, 2024: Famous Transpraia da Caparica was bought by a French investor and may resume connection soon 🙂 🙂

The Costa da Caparica beach train stopped running in 2020 but the business was bought by a French investor. Next year the connection between Costa da Caparica and Fonte da Telha may return, with official authorizations still lacking (SIC NOTICIAS)

Portugal Costa da Caparica train

Little train Costa Caparica YouTube movie

The best beaches are Morena and Sereia, surrounded by dunes and with good bars. At almost every stop there’s a beachclub and the further south you go, the more you have the place to yourself.

Costa da Caparcia trans praia train

The ‘Trans-Praia’ train.

World famous gay Beach 19

Stop (paragem) 19, also known as Beach 19 or Praia de Bela Vista,  is where the nudist beach starts, also world famous for being Portugal’s most popular gay beach.

Gay clubs and parties in Lisbon

Lisbon Costa da Caparica Beach 19 1

Beach 19

As everywhere in the world: where the nudist beach ends, the gay cruising begins and this is the largest in Portugal.

In the vast bushes behind the railway track, guys from all over Europe and beyond, meet for some fun and relaxation.

Lisbon Costa da Caparica Beach 19 2 men near the sea

Beach 19 Costa da Caparica Lisbon

HOW TO GET THERE

From Lisbon to Costa da Caparica: by car, go South to Caparica and south again all the way to the last access to the beaches. When the road goes uphill, you have just passed the access you want to go! Go past Praia do Rei until the parking at the end of the dust road. Upon Bela Vista, walk south, to the left of the restaurant. It’s some 2 miles of white sand beach and dunes!

By bus: from Praça de Espanha take bus 153 to Costa de Caparica busstation. Walk five minutes south along the boulevard and you’ll see the little train, that leaves every half hour (until end of September). The 161 bus from Praca de Areeiro will also take you to Caparica.

Ferry Lisbon Tagus River Martijn Kramers

Ferry to Lisbon Cacilhas

An alternative route includes a mini-cruise (15 min.) on the ferry from Cais do Sodré across the river to Cacilhas. Get on bus 138 (directo) to Costa da Caparica (bus 124 via Almada will provide you with a long detour past 1960 highrise architecture, that’s better avoided).

By train: cross the Tagus river to Pragal railway station and take bus 196 to Caparica. The train may be a good alternative on weekends, it’ll help you avoid the traffic jams on the 25th of April Bridge.

Praia da Fonte da Telha

Beach Fonte da Telha

Beach 19 is just a short walk from the centre of vilage Fonte da Telha. (‘Fountain of the roof’). This little fishermen’s village is the real Portugal, with some trendy beach cafés added to it. Fonta da Telha can also be reached by bus from Cacilhas harbour.

MECO Beach

Even further south, about 10 kilometres from Fonte da Telha: Meco Beach, a real mecca for nudists & surfers

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Lisbon & autumn: smell of roasted chestnuts & St. Martin’s Day traditions

The unmistakable smell of roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas) is announcing autumn’ s arrival in Portugal. ‘Quentes e boas’! ‘(Get’ em hot!). This cry goes out on the Lisbon streets.

Lisbon city centre in autumn

Much to the chagrin of many, the traditional paper cone made out of the Yellow Papers has been replaced by soulless paper packages, which takes something away from the ritual of chestnuts.

Baixa area, the commercial heart of Lisbon

St. Martin’s Day is celebrated on November 11

It’s called Magusto. This day is the peak of three days, often with very good weather, known as Verão de São Martinho (Saint Martin’s summer).

St. Martin’s Day dinner at home with friends, November 2018

The Portuguese celebrate St. Martin’s Day with jeropiga (a traditional delicious sweet liqueur wine) and roasted chestnuts (castanhas assadas).

Tram Lisbon Feliz Natal and roasted chestnuts

Rossio, Lisbon in December & Christmas trams

Traditions

On St. Martin’s Day traditions dictate that family and friends gather around a glowing hearth or bonfire.

How to roast chestnuts in the oven

Roasted chestnuts

Chestnuts are roasted, traditional alcoholic drinks are served, like água-pé (a watered kind of wine), jeropiga, vinho novo (young wine), or the slow smooth burn of aguardente (‘firewater’, alcoholic drinks between 29 and 60 percent).

Chestnuts and Jeropiga

Tradition: chestnuts and jeropiga

Because this pagan festival is a celebration of life, there is food and drink and plenty of fun: in some regions people smother themselves with ashes, black themselves up and sing around the fire.

Largo do Chiado chestnuts

Largo do Chiado, Lisbon

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